So in the middle of the moving ordeal we decided to take a little time out to go to Tuscany with some friends....not the best time for us to be away but it was planned months before we decided to buy the house France. As it turned out it was a nice much needed break from the house drama.
Every once in a while I go on a vacation house hunting frenzy. I hit the major places like Homeaway and Homelidays and a then few other sites depending on the location. Way back in the spring I found a small villa in Tuscany - reasonable price and a good location not far from the major sights. After contacting the owners we realized it was a perfect fit and booked the place.
The villa - Antica Sosta - was located in a small hamlet (not really a village - just a cluster of houses) about 10 minutes outside the town of Castlefiorentino in the Chianti region of Tuscany. Castlefiorentino itself isn't a tourist town - parts are a bit scruffy - but that did make it nice in some ways. In town we could see the life of the town without being hit by tour buses. Yes - there were quite a few tourists at the grocery store buying supplies for their Tuscan villas but there were far more locals than visitors. At least in October that seemed to be the norm
entrance
street view
view
street
misty morning
Day one took us to the small town of Peccioli which featured a cool elevator from the parking lot up into the old part of of the city. It was a Sunday so quiet in town - but we did have a nice walk and the kids had their first taste of Italian pizza...
We even found a strange dinosaur park that the kids enjoyed...
Day two we found ourselves in Certaldo- a more modern town with a medieval walled section accessible by funicular. Again - being Monday things were quiet but we found a very nice casual place for lunch and let the kids run around the town. We checked out the local art museum and headed back to the house for a swim in the pool. Of course the highlight for the kids in Certaldo was the Gelato
On day three we ended up in Vinci- yes the home of Leonardo da Vinci. It was a fun trip for the kids - although a bit confusing. At first we couldn't find the museum we were looking for - one meant to feature the machines of da Vinci. We ended up at a museum that focused on the Mona Lisa and the interesting ways it has been represented in other art...
The kids enjoyed it - even more interesting than the museum with the mini-replicas of machines that Leo invented. Vinci was fine but had a few more tourists than Certaldo or Peccioli. It felt a little bit less like a real living town. We did get to see the house were Leo was born and enjoyed another nice casual lunch...
That night we were treated to a highlight of the trip - a cooking class which ended with the owners of the house serving us the food in the form of a four course meal. The two 'moms' had a great time cooking with the Pappallardo family.
It was an excellent meal of assorted bruschetta, homemade ravioli, pork and apple cake for dessert. Really great experience. Seth even crashed the cooking class...
Day four we ended up in Siena. The villa was located about halfway between Florence and Siena so we opted for Sienna when it came time for the big trip. It was a bit overwhelming at first - hoards of tourists - overpriced coffee - but it is a beautiful place. As the fog lifted (as it did in about 5 minutes) our spirits improved.
The kids chased pigeons around the square...
Lunch time came around and we ducked into Osteria Boccon del Prete. We liked the look of the menu (it wasn't plastic with pictures of the food) and needed some food quick. Turned out to be one of the better meals in Tuscany. Great food - not too touristy - and fine with the kids. We even met a British expat from Umbria who said that this particular restaurant was one of two restaurants he goes to in Siena. He also offered us a glass of the bottle of wine he order by himself. Two odd things about the place though. Wine is only by the glass or bottle (we usually get a half bottle or a bit more but not a whole bottle for the two of us) The bottle vs. glass price wasn't so different - so this expat we met gets a bottle and then drinks as much as he wants and then gives a bit of it to new friends. Second odd thing - no espresso. What? An Italian restaurant without espresso. Shock. Horror. Off to the Duomo and for a walk....
Day five and we were in Volterra. Apparently the place to go if you are avoiding vampire attacks... Maybe that is why the Cullens didn't like it very much. I guess the Twilight movie was set there. I haven't read these books yet but I hear that there are some vampires in the book - some of them are the Cullens. It was funny. Quite honestly I would have to say it was one of our least favorite town visits (OK Pisa was a bit much - but that is a city) Volterra is in a stunning location but didn't have too much to offer. We saw the duomo and Seth and Aimee hit the torture museum. Of course we did the gelato stop. Mediocre lunch. Plenty of tourists and not too many locals. I dunno - as a Cullen I am biased. I would pass on Volterra - not sure I would attack a Volturi if I saw one walking the streets though....
Here are the Cullen kids ready to attack in Volterra...
I should read the books...Aimee has just started the first one.
Back at the house that evening it was time for the pizza party! We weren't sure what to expect but it turned out to be great. The owners of the villa invited the eight of us over for a pizza party. They live just around the corner in a house with an outdoor pizza oven and gorgeous Tuscan views. The kids all had a chance to make pizzas while the adults did a pizza tasting -
Day six we found San Miniato- a great little hill town halfway between Pisa and Florence. This had the perfect balance of low-key sights and minimal tourist traffic. We found a great little spot for lunch and had the back room all to ourselves - I was able to have my final 'cinghiale (wild-boar)' based meal. The area is also known for its truffle oil - we had some drizzled over peccorino cheese. The highlights of the town were the quick walk up the tower (amazing views of Tuscany) and an spectacular duomo. I think we ran into about 20 other tourists during the few hours we were in town. I am sure that in summer there is more of a crowd - but for us it was perfect.
After plenty of good meals and fun with friends - the week came to an end. On the way back to Switzerland we decided to take the coastal route north to Genoa and then up through the St. Bernard pass back into Switzerland. A longer trip - we stopped overnight - but worth it. Very little traffic and some great scenery.
First we stopped for lunch in Pisa
And yes the tower is leaning. If we harnessed all the power of the tourists pushing it back up I am pretty sure we could straighten it. There were of plenty of other people with the same idea.... Luckily our friends had been to Pisa earlier in the week and directed us away from the tower for lunch - so we found a nice little spot and had a good lunch. Long...but good.
Then it was off to lower part of the Aosta Valley- an interesting part of Italy on the border of Switzerland and France - right by the Alps. The air seemed so crisp and clean. The people were happy to speak French as French it is one of the official languages of the Province of Aosta - many spoke German also...even a few spoke English. Interestingly there are communities where German is the official language. And it was clean. Felt almost Swiss!
We stayed at a small place called La Maison des Vignerons. It was a good rest for the night in a tiny commune called Grand Vert outside Donnas. Amazing ancient little wine town with houses crammed one on top of another.
In the morning we woke up to this....
the walking of the cows. Just a farmer and his cows going out the field. Very odd considering how small and densely populated the town was - people literally just keep a few animals in the courtyard. The B and B was the highlight of the town - not much else happening besides dogs and kids running through the streets and the occasional ancient Fiat Panda. After a very nice breakfast we were on our way...tried to stop at the castle in Fenis but of course by tour only - on the hour in Italian. We opted for a look and then were on our way back to Switzerland.
Our final quick stop was in the town of Aigle just east of Lake Geneva.
After a quick stop at the castle it was back to Basel. And the reality of trying to finish up the house purchase and move....
All the Tuscany pictures are in a set on flickr here.
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